You're holding your guinea pig, who squeezes closer to you and it sounds like he is purring. But only cats purr, right? Do guinea pigs purr? Yes, they most certainly do emit a purring sound. But is it really a purr and what does it mean? Is your guinea pig happy, sad, angry, or otherwise when he makes this noise? I had guinea pigs as a child and so have my own kids.
Do guinea pigs purr? Yes. Guinea pigs do in fact purr. They may do it when you are holding them. They might also do it when eating carrots or their favorite treat. The purring could be directed at an object, another guinea pig, or even you. One child's science fair project actually proved an expert wrong regarding the guinea pig purr. The expert believed that only cats have a 'true' purr, which is not true in our experience. All of our guinea pigs have always made the purring sound. What does it mean when my guinea pig purrs? This can actually mean several things. The most common meaning of a guinea pig purr is happiness. But that is not always the case. It can also indicate fear, fright, and more. Deciphering each purr requires being attentive to your pet, as well as listening to the length and pitch of the purr. Which guinea pig purrs are a good sign? If your guinea pig's purr sounds long and deep, he is likely very content and comfortable. Our guinea pig usually does this when someone holds him close and talks to him. Happy purrs are not always long. But they are generally accompanied by overall calmness, such as posture and attitude. Pay attention to what else your guinea pig is doing while he purrs like this. Which purrs should I worry about? Short and possibly higher-pitched purring noises could be a sign of pain or fright. These are not good. Higher voice pitches while purring can be an indicator of being annoyed. If your guinea pig is doing this toward you, leave him alone for a while. If it's toward another guinea pig, separate them until they've both had time to settle down. Guinea pigs like attention from each other and even from you. But sometimes they also need to be alone. How can I make my guinea pig purr? The best way to entice purrs from your guinea pig is to keep him happy. Stroke his ears. Pet his back softly. Talk gently to him often and hold him close. Give him treats as recommended. But most of all, just show him you love him and he will do the same in return, which may result in purring. *I originally published a version of this via Yahoo Contributor Network
0 Comments
Has your guinea pig been eating his droppings? Are you sure that is actually what he's doing? Do guinea pigs eat their poop? Some animals, such as guinea pigs, partake in coprophagy either unhealthily or as part of their regular nutrition regimen. Should your guinea pig be eating his poop? If not, can you prevent guinea pigs from doing this?
Do guinea pigs really eat their own poop? Yes. In a way, guinea pigs do eat a substance that is extracted the same way as their poop. But they do not actually eat their poop, per se. Guinea pigs need to eat their food twice before it is fully digested. Therefore, the substance they are eating should be thought of as a nutritional pellet. Plus, it's just easier on the ears to say your guinea pig is eating nutrition pellets, rather than referring to it as poop. Eating one's own fecal matter is called coprophagy. What is coprophagy? As explained above, coprophagy is the act of eating one's own excrement. Many animals practice this. For some, like the guinea pig, it is normal and healthy. Many animals actually need to digest their food twice in order to benefit from the nutrients. Therefore, do not be alarmed if you see your guinea pig doing this. How much coprophagy is normal? Generally, a guinea pig will not eat anymore of these pellets than is necessary. A general rule is to make sure your guinea pig is also eating his regular diet and drinking fresh water. Coprophagy helps your guinea pig digest the rest of the food in the diet. If a guinea pig is not doing this regularly, a deficiency in protein and other nutrients may occur. While guinea pig food includes nutritional pellets, the pellets consumed during coprophagy are better for your pet's health. Can I prevent coprophagy in my guinea pig? It is natural and necessary for your guinea pig to partake in coprophagy. In one study, guinea pigs who were prevented from partaking in coprophagy suffered nutritionally. This was true , even with those guinea pigs being fed commercial pellets. Therefore, unless your vet recommends it (generally in an extreme case), you should never try to stop your pet from eating pelleted excrement. If you do need to prevent your guinea pig from doing this, your veterinarian will advise you on what to do based on your guinea pig's individual needs. What happens if my guinea pig does not eat his own pellets? Eating the pellets (or poop) is vital to your guinea pig's health. If your guinea pig does not show signs of doing this, it is best to see an appropriately licensed animal care professional. Your pet's veterinarian will be able to tell you how to help your guinea pig meet nutritional needs , as well as any other steps you can take. *I originally published a version of this via Yahoo Contributor Network "Aww, mommy, they're so cute! Can I have one?" Hamsters may be small and cute. But they require more responsibility than one may think at first glance. Parents will need to help initially and possibly throughout the life of a pet to ensure proper care. My kids are experts at caring for hamsters and rescue those in need whenever we have room. But it took guidance from me to get them there.
Pets are not toys. This is the number one thing kids need to know when adopting a hamster. Because hamsters are so small, it is easy for kids to forget they are living things. Don't take the joy out of watching the hamster play. But be sure your child realizes this aspect before ever being allowed to hold the hamster. Someone told me a horror story about rolling a hamster in the ball too hard when they were a child. It didn't turn out well for the poor little guy. Only the hamster should be spinning the ball or wheel. Can kids handle full care for a hamster? Even the most responsible kids should be taught how to properly care for a hamster. It is safest for your child and the pet if you assist. Depending on the age and responsibility of your child, more responsibilities can be given as your child shows signs of proper hamster care. My tween and teen have proven capable of taking full responsibility for the hamsters after practice and teamwork with me. At first, they were allowed to feed the hamster, as well as clean the cage and place new bedding. Next came the ability to hold the hamster with supervision. When they mastered holding, they were allowed to also place the hamster in his ball and watch him run around the room, as well as do other tasks. What should adults do to help? Hamsters need lots of attention and love. But they like to run, so it is important adults show kids know how to hold them properly. They can easily escape, which is not good for their health and well-being. My tween and teen can hold all of the hamsters, except one who is an escape artist. Thus far, I am the only one who can hold Butterscotch. The younger kids are only allowed to hold our female hamster, Kiki, and must have supervision from me. Besides escaping, another problem is biting or the kids holding hamsters the wrong way. Hamsters sleep a great deal during the day and be most active at night. Parents need to remind the kids of this and not allow them to wake the animals when they need to rest. What if my child isn't caring for the hamster properly? If your child is not caring for the hamster properly, you will need to take over. While it is important to teach kids about responsible pet care, you cannot let the hamster suffer. Our first hamster came to us with a sad story. The kids were not caring for him properly. The parents did not step up to help and ended up surrendering him back over to the pet store. The best way to teach kids about being responsible for the care of a pet is by doing it, not by abandoning that responsibility. Extra handy hints on hamster care for kids - Check with local animal shelters and rescue organizations to see if any hamsters are in need there. This helps an animal in need and helps control pet overpopulation. - Always have the kids wear gloves when handling their hamster. Hamsters may bite, which can cause the kids to jump and possibly injure the hamster. - Never put hamsters of different litters and breeds together. They may fight. Some breeds cannot be housed together at all, even from the same litter. All of our hamsters have their own cages and the kids know to keep them separate. - Never put males and females together unless you are a professional breeder. While baby hammies may be cute, it is not wise to breed hamsters unless you know what you are doing. Also, so many pets die every day because of overpopulation. Teach your kids about proper procedures concerning hamster breeding. - Major pet supply retailers often hold classes kids can take to learn about the care of their pets. This is a good idea before ever adopting a pet. It is also a good idea if your kids are not taking responsibility. Note that the author is not a licensed animal specialist, but a long-time animal nurturer. This article is based on her personal experiences and should not take the place of your veterinarian's advice. *I originally published this via Yahoo Contributor Network by Marlissa Campbell, Contributing Writer
For horse people, spring means better weather and longer days, which in turn mean more opportunities to spend time with your horse. For horses, spring means lots of tempting, delicious new grass to eat. The fast-growing grass of spring is candy for horses, and access must be controlled to keep your horse healthy. Horses are grazing animals and born to thrive on grass, right? Well, yes, but too much grass too soon can do them great harm. After a winter diet of hay and concentrates, a horse turned out to graze at will in lush new pasture is at risk for colic as well as "founder" or laminitis. As horse owners, we often have to protect these large but fragile animals from their own instincts. New-grown grass is especially high in soluble carbohydrates, such as fructan. These simple sugars and carbohydrates are readily broken down in the horse’s digestive system. Overconsumption can lead to excessive gas production in the intestine, or “gas colic.” Gas colic is painful and distressing for the horse, and frightening to the owner. Worse yet is “impaction colic,” where the intestine fails to move ingested material along normally. Instead, the gut is blocked or impacted. Impaction colic is not only extremely painful, it is potentially lethal and requires immediate veterinary care. The sudden influx of simple sugars from new grass can also result in the metabolic changes which cause laminitis. Laminitis, or founder, is the result of damage to the tissues that bind the hoof wall to the underlying bone. The condition makes it painful and difficult for the horse to walk or even stand normally. Veterinary attention should be sought at the first symptoms of laminitis. Symptoms include: lameness, heat in the hoof, pounding digital pulse, and the classic “laminitis stance.” In the characteristic stance, the horse is trying to relieve pressure on his front feet by bringing the rear legs further underneath his body, and pushing the front feet forward. If laminitis is left untreated, the bone of the horse’s foot can protrude through the sole of the hoof. If that happens, prognosis for regaining soundness, or even survival is questionable. Does this mean you have to deny your horse the pleasure of his favorite food? Not entirely. It means you have to be the brains of the partnership, and introduce your horse to spring grass with care. -- Start with grazing sessions of 15 minutes, and gradually work up to a full day. Later in the season, the grass will mature at a lower sugar content, and restriction won’t be so critical. -- Fructan and other sugars rise during morning hours to peak around noon, and then gradually decline through the afternoon. Avoid grazing during peak times. -- Follow any special veterinary recommendations for your horse or pony. Some animals are especially inclined to laminitis or excessive weight gain, and have to be managed with extra caution. Spring is a great time to be outdoors enjoying your horse. Watching your horse grazing peacefully with his friends in a brilliant green pasture is a lovely sight. Just don’t forget: As you wouldn’t leave your child to live on a diet of Easter candy, your horse needs you to look out for his best interests. Marlissa blogs about books (including horse books!) and the reading life at "You Are What You Read." She is also a Pinterest addict and can be found at her page of the same name. You're perusing a magazine or website and notice they are holding a contest. Should you enter your pet in a free photo contest? As a pet parent, I've seen these offered many times. Recently, on the advice of a friend, I was reminded to read the fine print and dig deeper before entering my pets into any contests. How do you know if the contest is really the best thing for you and your pet? Consider the source. Does the company pass a scam test? How long have they been around? What is the company's purpose? While contests from smaller companies could certainly be legitimate, if you can find no information on the company, that could be a red flag. Do you really want your pet's photo in the hands of a company who has no visible track record? Look over the rules. Is it clearly laid out what will happen to the photos during and after the contest? Make sure you are comfortable with what's stated. If there are no rules posted, it's probably a better idea not to risk it. You have no idea what they have planned for your pet's photo. The rules need to be clear and they need to be in easy-to-find location. If I can't agree with the rules or even fond them, you can guarantee that my pet's photo is not getting sent to anyone. What is the prize? Check out all of the prize offerings and make sure it is something you and your pet will benefit from. For instance, your pet will not gain anything from a prize consisting of food that he does not eat. If the prize offers stardom for your pet, will it be compensated? Starring in ads, commercials, or magazines should always be compensated. If that is the only prize your pet will receive in the photo contest, think about the company's motives. They may simply be using the contest as a way to avoid paying for pet models and actors. If our pets are photo contest winners, I would want them to reap the most benefits, not me or the contest host. Does your pet like posing? If your pet is not comfortable posing for pictures, don't stress him out just to enter a contest. However, if your pet enjoys the practice, let her soak up the attention of the camera. Remember to have plenty of water, nourishment, and entertainment available if the photo shoot will take a considerable amount of time. Make posing for the photo contest a fun event for your pet. If you just have fun with your pet and don't force it, the experience will be more enjoyable for your both. The hamsters in our family enjoy posing for the camera. That's probably due to the fact that we just let them do their thing and snap away, instead of trying to force them into posing a particular way. Is it something your pet should be paid for? This can be a huge deal-breaker. As mentioned above, some companies hold pet photo contests simply to create PR buzz. If the company is trying to cut down modeling and acting costs by having a contest, is this really a company you'd want your pet working for? If my pet is going to star in a commercial, on a website, in a magazine, or anywhere else, I want them to be compensated fairly. Just like humans should not work for free, neither should animals. They should be fairly rewarded for their efforts. How many photos will 'win'? If you are entering a contest, the number of winners should be much lower than the number of entrants. If everyone who enters is a winner, the contest is likely not very legitimate. Also, watch for companies who ask you to purchase the items your pet is featured in once they win the contest. If your pet is a contest winner, you should not have to pay any money for any reason. Government taxes on a prize are legitimate. But if you are asked to pay anything other than that, you may be the victim of a pet photo contest scam. When entering your pet into a photo contest, it's always important to check all the facts first. While it can be exciting and you want to see your pet's name up in lights, there are many factors to consider first. Choose wisely and your pet has a better chance of something worthwhile should she end up a winner. Jump in and you may end up dealing with more than you bargained for. *I originally published this via Yahoo Contributor Network by Lyn Lomasi, Write W.A.V.E. Media Staff Can Hamsters Hiss?You just brought home your baby hamster and you want to take him out to play, but a strange noise emits from him. Maybe you have had your hamster a while and brought him a new friend he's reacting strangely to. Is your hamster hissing? My kids own two hamsters, one from a rescue situation. It is definitely possible for a hamster to hiss. So what does it mean?
Look at your hamster's body language. When your hamster makes the hissing sound, what else is he doing? A hamster who hisses may be posed in a different stance than usual. He may also be baring his teeth, growling, raising up his paws, or making other unusual sounds. Paying attention to your hamster's reactions can help you prevent the hissing in the future. Usually a hissing hamster is feeling scared, nervous, or threatened. Consider the situation. If you just brought your hamster home, she needs some time to get used to her home and then to you. What is going on at the moments when your hamster hisses? If you are trying to interact with her, give her some time. Is there another hamster or animal nearby? You should not have other animals near your hamster. Some hamsters can safely live together if introduced a a young age, but many prefer solitude. They can be extremely territorial. While we have two hamsters, they have separate cages. The cages are side by side, so they can watch each other. Some hamsters like this type of setup, but prefer their own cage. Does my hamster hate me? Not necessarily. It can take time for a hamster to get used to its owner. This may take days or even a couple months. Your hamster hissing directly at you is not something you want. But if you treat him right, given time, he will no longer do this. Unless you are abusing your hamster, the hissing is more a sign of nervousness and feeling threatened than it is of hate. Just give your fur baby time to get used to you and most likely the hissing will begin to fade. Is the housing situation safe and comfortable? Perhaps your hamster is not hissing at you, but at something she is uncomfortable with. Remember that just like human babies, your hamster cannot talk to you to indicate an issue. All she can do is squeak or hiss to express her thoughts. Is there anything in the cage your hamster does not like? Is she being bothered by a person or another animal? Have you housed your hamster with one or more from another breed or family? Unless hamsters are born in the same litter or introduced at a very young age, they do not usually get along well. Especially do not mix different hamster breeds in the same hamster cage. They are almost guaranteed to fight, which can include hissing but will likely be even more violent. How can I stop my hamster from hissing? When you bring your hamster home, allow a couple days for your furry friend to get used to his new habitat before handling him. After he has a normal routine with eating, drinking, and nesting, you can then begin to interact more with him. Talk to him softly through the cage at various intervals throughout the day, including when you feed him, change the cage, and more. He may hiss during this time period, especially if you move too quickly. First try petting him while he is distracted by eating. Do this slowly and with a gloved hand. Eventually, you will also be able to pick him up. Always do this with a gloved hand until you are sure the hamster will not bite you. While hamster bites do not hurt much, they can cause you to jump or jerk your hand, which may hurt or scare your hamster. *I originally published this via Yahoo Contributor Network by Lyn Lomasi, Staff Writer A love for animals may come naturally for some kids, but not so much for others. Whether your kids show signs of care toward animals or not, it's important to guide and foster it early one. My kids and I are huge advocates for animals, both through journalism and in action. We've physically rescued animals in need and also strive to help them in many ways, both directly and indirectly. Teaching kids to respect animals is a fun and rewarding experience. Visit the local shelters. My kids and I often visit our local shelter and have come home with a few here and there when possible. The stories of shelter animals hold great lessons when it comes to teaching kids about respecting animals. Many of these animals have been abused, abandoned, or neglected due to lack of care and understanding about proper treatment. Parts of their stories will be on the papers attached to their cages. Shelter personnel may even know and share more if asked. We like to visit and give attention to the animals at least a few times every week. The fate of shelter animals is often unknown. While we cannot adopt them all, we feel we can make a great impact in their lives by playing with them and petting them. This at least lets them know they are loved and gives them a small pocket of sunshine, no matter what ends up happening down the road. Observe neighborhood animals. Watching animals in their natural habitats also holds a good lesson. While watching them, explain to the kids how every living creature holds a place in nature. Taking away certain animals upsets the balance of things. While certain animals may be pesky at times, they are needed to sustain life. For instance, spiders creep some people out, but without them, we might have too many flies or other small insects. Squirrels can be backyard pests. But before you write them off, remember that they have a purpose. Like other small animals, they are prey for other animals. But the acorns they bury for food supply can also become trees, which are great for climbing, oxygen, and more. Teaching kids things like this helps them better appreciate and respect the purpose of animals. Expose children to both wild and domesticated animals. Take the kids to wildlife reservations, horse barns, and even just to homes of people with pets. As explained above, animal shelters are also a good location for exposing kids to domesticated animals. Exposing them to both sides of the spectrum gives them a more broad understanding of animals. Allow them to do things like milk a cow, feed chickens, pet a cat or dog, hold rabbits, and more. The more exposure to all of these things, the better. Keep safety in mind, of course. Wild animals, like lions, should be observed from a distance at a zoo or reserve. Teach the kids about the purpose, habits, and nature of all animals while they interact. Get a family pet. Once your kids gain some knowledge about animals and can be gentle with them, adding a family pet can help expand upon the lesson. Visit your local shelter and let them find a pet that matches your child's abilities, as well as your family's unique lifestyle. Some kids will do better with a small animal, like a hamster. Others may fare better with a cat or dog. Caring for a family pet helps children develop a love and respect for animals, as well as more responsibility, in general. *I originally published this via Yahoo Contributor Network
by Dennis Townsend, Contributing Writer
In 2005, a sergeant in the U.S. Army was on patrol in Iraq when his canine soldier companion, Rocky, detected an enemy sniper lying in wait with an AK-47. The sniper fled into the bush, and Rocky gave chase, locating and holding the sniper at bay. The trapped sniper pointed his gun at the dog and fired, killing Rocky instantly. The sergeant, who had been Rocky's handler for three years took the loss very hard. They had been deployed together on numerous missions, and were never separated, even when they were on leave. The soldier took solace in the fact that his best friend died doing what he was trained to do, and by doing that, he saved the lives of the men in his unit. War Dogs were first used in World War Two, and have been on the front lines for not only service men and women, but law enforcement as well. The events of 9/11 brought their responsibilities to a new level, which is why the Special Operation Forces in Iraq and Afghanistan found that dogs would be a big help in that theatre of battle. One soldier commented recently that he saw the dogs save lives many times by helping them avoid ambushes, and by detecting improvised explosive devices, IED’s, that remains one of the most deadliest devices the troops have had to contend with in the "war on terror." Most dogs that retire, and make it home are usually adopted by their handlers, or another working dog agency. And what about the dogs that don’t make it home? As of last year, there were 58 dogs killed in action while serving the Special Operations Forces, and grave markers, and individual memorials are usually paid for by their handlers. While soldier handler doesn't have any problems paying for their canine friends memorials, they believe that their four-legged warriors deserve "official recognition". So in 2010, a small group of military and civilian advocates, began raising money and lobbying for a memorial which became the Special Operations Forces K9 Memorial Foundation in 2012. In early spring 2013 the group announced that an official memorial, the first in the nation specifically honoring SOF dog, would be placed at the Airborne and Special Operations Museum in Fayetteville, North Carolina near Fort Bragg. Today over 2,000 working dogs serve in U.S. military operations around the world with 600 of them in combat zones. It takes 6 to 12 months of military training to prepare these exceptional animals, and though a number of dogs try out for the military, only a small number make the cut. It is fitting that the breed of dog that was sculptured to stand at the canine memorial is a Belgian Malinois because it was one named "Cairo" that participated in the raid that killed Osama bin Laden. The granite memorial is etched with the names of the dogs killed in action and the date in which they were killed. A fine tribute to the canine warriors who made the ultimate sacrifice.
DLTPONCH33
by Marlissa Campbell, Contributing Writer Photo of Queen Elizabeth II and President Ronald Reagan By Michael Evans [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons If you're an equestrian of a certain age, you may be wondering how much longer you'll be able to participate in your chosen sport. Or perhaps you've never ridden before, but it's something you've always wanted to try and you're wondering if it's physically possible for you. While horseback riding is beneficial for building core strength and balance, age-related conditions such as osteoarthritis can make it more difficult. Horse care tasks, such as grooming and tacking up are also complicated by joint pain. Here are five suggested adaptations to help the older rider work around common problems of weakness and stiffness in the hands, hips, and knees.
1. Try Rope Reins If you have hand weakness or stiffness, you may find traditional flat leather reins difficult to grip. Fat, round rope reins are more comfortable in the hand and don't slip through the fingers as easily as leather. Look for clip-on reins that are are 5/8 of an inch in diameter and 10 feet long. They can be used with any Western or English bridle. You could even make your own reins from yacht rope and small bolt snaps. Other options are available from vendors such as Freedom Riders, which specialize in items for disabled riders. For example, loops made to attach to standard reins are easy to hold without worrying about your hands slipping. 2. Switch to Ergonomic Grooming Tools If you have problems with your hands, grooming your horse -- especially picking dirt out of hooves -- can be very difficult. Well-designed, ergonomic grooming tools are well worth the premium price. I had no idea that my two-dollar hoof pick was making this task far more difficult than necessary until I borrowed a friend’s high-quality pick. As soon as I got home I ordered one for myself. I chose "The Ultimate Hoofpick" -- Amazon.com sells them, as does SmartPak Equine. With a firm sharp blade and a fat, comfortable handle, it is easy to dig under the muck and flick it right out of my horse's hooves. Alternatively, Oster makes a full line of ergonomic horse-grooming tools, including a hoof pick. Oster items can be purchased individually or in sets. 3. Step up to a Three-Step Mounting Block When I complained to my doctor of pain in my left hip, I mentioned that I thought it might have to do with putting pressure on that joint when mounting my horse. His response? "Get a shorter horse." I got a taller mounting block instead. At 22 inches high, my new mounting block gives me a stable platform for getting onto my horse without having to push up through my left leg. My barn friends laughed, but the block gets borrowed all the time. You might be able to save some money by building your own, but be certain it is strong and stable. Do not try to substitute a household stepladder -- it would be too easy to knock over, which could frighten your horse and lead to a nasty fall. 4. Consider a Dressage Saddle Dressage saddles aren’t just for “horse ballet,” but are also popular among trail riders for their supportive structure and light weight. Whether you've always been a Western rider or have spent your riding career in a close-contact English saddle, switching to a dressage saddle can reduce strain on knees and ankles. Western riders will find the high cantle and large knee rolls of a dressage saddle support them in a familiar alignment of shoulder, hip, and ankle. All that's missing is the horn -- as well as 20 to 30 pounds of weight. My Wintec Isabell dressage saddle weighs a smidge more than 12 pounds. I can carry it over one arm, and easily lift it to set down gently on my horse's back. My arthritic left shoulder is very happy that I chose this saddle over a traditional trail saddle weighing more than twice as much. For English riders accustomed to a hunt seat, a dressage saddle offers comfort and support while riding with knee-friendly long stirrups. In contrast, I found trail riding in my all-purpose saddle was leaving me with sore knees and ankles, as well as numb feet. Simply lengthening the stirrups on the all-purpose saddle left me feeling insecure, especially when riding up or down steep inclines. With my dressage saddle, I can dismount after a trail ride and walk away without pain. 5. Experiment with Stirrup Leathers and Different Stirrups Inch-wide, English-style stirrup leathers put less twist on the knees than the wider, stiffer Western-style fenders. Stirrup leathers are standard for English saddles, but may also be an option for some trail saddles. While genuine leather is traditional, synthetic "leathers" have the advantage of not stretching with use. I love my Wintec Webbers, which consist of a single layer of a non-stretch synthetic material. The single layer means less bulk under the leg, and less resistance to curving around my shin. Stirrup irons are available in a variety of designs, so you can choose what works best for you. Options include wide and padded treads, including endurance models designed for comfort when riding long distances. Stirrup eyes may be angled or adjustable, reducing torque on the knee and making it easier to pick up a dropped stirrup. A flexible attachment between the branches of the stirrup and the tread allows the rider's heels to drop naturally, reducing strain on the knees and ankles. Think you're too old for horseback riding? In the 2012 Olympic games, many equestrian competitors were well past the age of 50. These inspirational riders included [then] 65 year-old show jumper, Ian Miller of Canada, and 71 year-old Japanese dressage rider, Hiroshi Hoketsu. Of course, most of us will never compete at Olympic level, but that doesn't mean we need to give up our chosen sport because of age. Marlissa blogs about books and reading at "You Are What You Read," and pins to her Pinterest page of the same name. You may also want to read these equestrian articles by Marlissa: Can You Afford That Free Horse? Horses, Bikes, and Hikers: Sharing the Trails Review of Wintec Pro Dressage Saddle with Contour Bloc by Marlissa Campbell, Contributing Writer So, you've been taking horseback riding lessons for a while, you feel that you've got the basics down, and you really love the animals. You've learned to groom and muck out stalls, and you even kind of enjoy the tangy smell of manure -- after all, where there's horse muck, there's horses! You long for a horse of your own, and have started to save up. Then one day a friend of a friend from the barn tells you about a horse that's available for free, or for a nominal price that you can easily afford. Of course, you're told, it's a terrific horse and absolutely perfect for you.
It happens more often than you might think, especially in today's poor economy. A horse owner loses their job, or a marriage breaks up, and suddenly their beloved mount becomes a financial drain they can't handle. All they want is a good home for their friend, but they need it now, and can't wait for a buyer with a few thousand dollars to hand. Their misfortune is your lucky day. No more lesson fees, and you can ride whenever you want. Your dream of a horse all your own, to love and pamper, is coming true. What could possibly go wrong? As is true for any animal, the purchase price is only the smallest tip of the iceberg of overall cost. In the case of a horse, that iceberg can be of Titanic-sinking proportions. So what's a horse-mad person to do? Here are ten tips that will help you make sure you're ready to make your dream a reality. 1. Choose carefully -- Chose a horse that is at least basically trained to do the kind of riding you want to do. You should be able to get on and have fun right away. Unless you're an experienced trainer, an untrained, unrideable free horse is no bargain. Rule out any horses that are too young to have been trained, or who otherwise haven't been trained to ride for any reason. Having some famous horses in its pedigree still doesn't make an untrained horse a good deal. Quality training is expensive and it takes time. Don't imagine that you can buy a book or video and do it right yourself. 2. Take someone with you -- Take someone who knows your skills and knows horses well -- someone who can't be seduced by big brown eyes and flashy coat color. If you don't have a friend who fits the bill, a lot of trainers and instructors will go with you to evaluate a potential horse. You'll need to pay their expenses plus a fee to be agreed ahead of time. It's well worth it to have someone along to talk you out of making a potentially dangerous and expensive mistake. The current owner should ride first, then your trainer, and only then you. Too many people get hurt trying out prospective horses. Don't be one of them. 3. Get the vet out -- Have at least a basic pre-purchase veterinary exam even on a free horse. Don't expect perfection, but expect a horse that's sound and healthy enough to do the activities you want to do with it. A vet can tell you if there's any evidence of injury or disease requiring expensive treatment and affecting rideability as of the day of the exam. You don't want to get your new horse home only to find a nasty, costly surprise. On the other hand, a flaw that might not look great to the casual eye, such as poor muscle development, could be readily correctable with proper feed and exercise. 4. Make a budget -- You'll have expenses of various types. One-time expenses include equipment such as tack and grooming gear. Regular monthly expenses include boarding and feed. Other regular expenses include hoof care, worming, vaccinations, and dental care. And there is always the potential for unexpected injury and illness requiring veterinary care. Be ready for all of them. 5. Check out the boarding options in your area -- Boarding your horse will be your highest regular cost commitment. The monthly cost of boarding will vary with your area and with the type of facilities. You'll pay more for amenities such as riding arenas and staff who do all the daily feeding and cleaning. You'll pay less if your horse lives out in a pasture and you have time every day to do your own chores. You'll find many options in between. What works best for you will depend on your schedule, your riding needs, and your budget. For example, if you prefer trail riding to schooling in an arena, why pay for a facility with a covered riding arena and an on-site trainer? Even if you have your own land that is zoned for horse keeping, you will still have expenses to consider. You'll need safe, secure fencing, as well as some kind of shelter for your horse. You'll need to buy hay for at least part of the year, and you'll need a suitable place to store that hay. You'll need a watering system so your horse will always have access to fresh drinking water. Last but not least, as horses generally do not do well living alone, your horse will need another equine for company. 6. Shop carefully for tack -- There may be good bargains to be had in second-hand tack, but tack fit matters. A saddle has to fit both you and your horse if you're going to have a comfortable and safe ride. Ill-fitting saddles are the cause of all kinds of bad horse behavior, from refusal to move forward to fits of bucking that can send you flying. Over the long-term, a badly fitting saddle can damage your horse's back, even if he seems to tolerate it. Even if you have access to a professional saddle-fitter to work with, reading up on the basics is a good idea. I can personally recommend Galadriel Billington’s book, Saddle Fitting Overview for the Horse Owner, which covers both English and Western style saddles. Tack also has to be in good repair. Catastrophic breakage of a rein, girth, or stirrup leather can be extremely dangerous. Don't fall for a false economy. 7. Don't skimp on routine care -- Regular hoof care, worming, vaccinations, and dental floating are essential to keeping your horse healthy. If you live in an area with sandy soil that may be ingested by your grazing horse, regular psyllium treatments are also a good idea. Failure to keep up with these basic procedures will eventually cost you big in heartache as well as vet bills. 8. Prepare for emergencies -- A sick or injured horse can run up big vet bills fast. Insurance is available, and well worth looking into. Unfortunately, horse insurance tends to be based on the purchase price and age of the animal. Older, low-priced horses can be difficult or impossible to insure. So start a savings account earmarked for vet bills and don't touch it for anything else! 9. Have some liability coverage -- If you have homeowner's insurance, personal liability for damages and injuries caused by your horse may be covered. Talk to your insurance agent. Otherwise, ask around and investigate what is available and appropriate for horse owners in your area. 10. Always have a Plan B -- None of us plan to lose our jobs or fall too ill to take care of our horses, but these things do happen. Your horse's best protection is to be sound, healthy, gentle, and well-trained for riding. Short of selling your horse, you may be able to find a leaser, or a lesson program that will take over at least some of the cost in exchange for using your horse. Even though you got a good deal on your horse, and gave him a great home, it's better not to sell or give him away if you can possibly avoid it. Not to be too dramatic about it, but if you have to sell, find out the current price being offered by meat buyers and ask more. Horse rescue blogs like "Fugly Horse of the Day" are full of tragic stories of owners who thought their horse was going to a good home, only to find it at auction, slaughter bound. Make a commitment to never let that happen. Horse ownership isn't just for the wealthy. Most of us are working people who sink all our "spare" cash into our beloved animals. However, taking care of a horse is an ongoing financial commitment, far beyond the initial purchase price. Do a realistic assessment of your resources and the options in your area before you fall in love with a pair of big brown eyes and a sign that says "Free to a good home!" Marlissa blogs about books (including horse books!) and the reading life at "You Are What You Read." She is also a Pinterest addict and can be found at her page of the same name. by Marlissa Campbell, Contributing Writer Hiking, cycling, and horseback riding are all popular ways of recreating and enjoying the outdoors. Many trails are designated as multi-use trails, which are open to all three of these recreational pursuits. Unfortunately, participants in one activity aren’t always as aware as they should be of the needs and safety concerns of other groups. For everyone Know the laws and park rules for your location and obey them. If bikes or horses aren’t permitted on certain trails, don’t ride there. Know the rules of right of way. The general convention for shared trails, according to the U.S. Department of Transportation, is that bikes must yield to hikers and horses, and hikers must also yield to horses. Don’t leave an enemy behind you if you can make a friend. You may never see that person again, but they’ll be more kindly disposed to the next hiker, biker, or equestrian they encounter. My personal pet peeve is iPods on the trail. Music is great, but if you have your ears plugged and filled with your favorite tunes, you may not hear when someone is trying to tell you something important. Keep the volume down and take out one ear bud; make yourself available for communication. For Equestrians You are responsible for training your horse and working on your own riding skills so you can cope safely with unexpected situations. Get your horse accustomed to sights she is likely to encounter on the trail, such as bicycles, hikers with backpacks and walking sticks, and dogs. Start with short trail rides in the company of experienced riders and horses, and work your way up to more challenging rides. Just because you have right-of-way, don’t insist on taking it. Giving way may make more sense and is always a courteous gesture. A cyclist coming up a hill will lose all momentum if you insist they stop, so why not move to the side and let them pass? On the flat or downhill, a bicycle moves faster than a walking horse. Making it safe and easy for them to pass you is the sensible course of action. On the other hand, don’t hesitate to ask a hiker or cyclist to wait for you if you feel your horse is nervous and may act out. Be gracious. If people stop to let you go by, thank them – even if their actions weren’t necessary. If they ask to pet your horse, and you believe it would be safe, say yes. Stop and chat for a few moments. It’s not just about you. You’re an ambassador for all equestrians, and the next equestrian will benefit (or not!) from your behavior. When someone does something wrong, don’t scream obscenities at them. Communicate. Ask for them to help you by stopping and waiting out of harm’s way while you calm your horse. Explain what happened and what you’re doing. Non-horse people have no idea how their actions can frighten a horse, or how dangerous a frightened horse can be. For Cyclists You’re the fastest moving trail user which brings particular risks and responsibilities. First and foremost, make sure you have a line of sight and room to stop before getting up your speed. Everyone stands to get hurt in a collision, and everyone benefits from avoiding them. The Idaho chapter of the Back Country Horsemen organization has created and published a set of safety posters, to educate mountain bikers and hikers on how to keep everyone safe when encountering horses on the trail. While the images are dramatic, they do make the point that horses are prey animals who may regard a fast-moving bicycle as a predator. Even on a wide trail with room to pass, always approach horses with caution. If you’re coming up behind a horse, shouting “left” and racing by without reducing your speed is a bad idea. Even the most placid-looking horse can, if startled, swing out in front of you far faster than you or the rider can react. Horses typically weigh over 1,000 pounds and you do not want to risk running into one. Slow down and speak to the rider. Ask if it’s safe to pass. Be patient if the rider needs a moment to get their mount over to the right side of the trail. The same precautions apply if you and the horse are traveling in opposite directions, with the advantage that horse and rider should see you coming. Whatever you do, don’t try to pass between two horses. Don’t do it even if there appears to be room. Conversely, if you’re cycling with a group, don’t pass on both sides of a horse. If the horse spooks, it will jump away from whatever scared it. You don’t want to risk spooking it into someone else. For Hikers As for the bike poster described above, the Back Country Horsemen’s poster for hikers is a dramatic presentation, but it does make a point. Horses tend to be wary of the unfamiliar and may see threats in the most innocuous objects. For example, my horse had concerns about the loaf of French bread sticking up out of a hiker’s backpack. She went by without trouble, but let that bread know she was watching its every move! On a single track trail, it is best to move off the trail to the downhill side, and wait for the horse or horses to pass. On a wider trail, keep everyone in your group to the same side of the horse and leave plenty of room. If the horse spooks, you want it to move away from the people on the ground – not away from one person and into someone else on its other side. Please don’t hide behind a tree or other obstruction. The horse will still know something is there, but not whether it’s a person or a lion. Control your dog. Clip on a leash, pick him up, or recall her to your side. This is for your dog’s protection as much as for the horse and rider. Some horses are afraid of dogs. If they’ve had a bad experience with a dog, it can be difficult to persuade them that most dogs are harmless. Some horses don’t like dogs and will deliberately try to kick them. Most good trail horses are steady around dogs and will ignore them. However, no horse is happy to have a dog suddenly rush out of the bushes into its path. Nor do they care for barking dogs running close around their legs. A rider can’t prevent an irritated horse from kicking out. Similarly, don’t let your child run towards a horse. If your child would like to pet the horse, ask the rider first. Some horses aren’t used to children and may be nervous of them. Even with an easygoing horse, it’s best to pick a small child up and let him or her pet the horse’s shoulder or neck, not the face or anywhere on the back end. Whenever you’re standing close to a horse, keep an eye on your feet, or more accurately, on the horse’s feet. I’ve been stepped on before, and it hurts! Whatever our preferred form of trail transportation, all trail users have more uniting than dividing us. Most encounters on the trail are pleasant and add to our shared enjoyment of the outdoors. Remembering a few simple courtesies and conventions can ensure that everyone stays safe and has a great time. Marlissa writes about books and reading on her blog, "You Are What You Read." You can also find her on Pinterest. by Lyn Lomasi, Staff Writer One day when I and my partner at the time went over to my mom’s house, we weren’t expecting to rescue any baby squirrels. In fact, we had gone over to clean out our storage area in her basement. It was getting a bit unorganized. But Operation Rescue Baby Squirrels was about to interrupt us midway. In the midst of the cleaning and sorting, one of my teens rushes down the stairs and says “Grandma needs you! There’s a squirrel in the truck.” We rushed up the stairs and out to the truck. A big squirrel had run out of the truck, revealing a baby and a nest. So we got to work on getting the baby out because he had wedged himself in between some of the wires of the engine. While I’m working on coaxing the baby to an area where I can grab him, Tee (ex's nickname) is busy pulling out all of the leaves, couch stuffing, and other debris that was forming a nest among the truck engine’s wires. All of a sudden he says “Oh no, Baby! There’s more!” More turned out to be just one more. His tail was poking out one side, while his body was on another, making it look like multiple squirrels at first. Since the second baby was in an easier location to grab, I pulled him out first with my fuzzy-gloved hand and placed him an inside a baby blanket. The super fuzzy glove was worn to make the squirrels feel safer, since they’re used to beings with fur, not human skin. I took that baby squirrel over to the tree that Mama Squirrel had run into and placed him underneath, all cozy in the baby blankie. Then, I got back to work on the feistier squirrel sibling. Operation Rescue Baby Squirrels was going well so far. Some who know me will know this is far from my first animal rescue operation. I’ve become quite the expert. But this other baby squirrel was determined to challenge my expertise. He kept burrowing himself further into the wires. But of course, there was a reason I chose the fuzzy gloves. I kept putting my fuzzy-gloved hand in front of the baby and eventually he started coming toward it. Tee was able to gently nudge him from behind for further motivation. He finally got into my hand and I placed him gently in the blanket with his furry sibling and Tee cleaned out the rest of the nest from the truck engine. At first, the mama squirrel didn’t notice where I had placed her babies. She hopped into the next tree and I was afraid she wouldn’t see them. So I went into the house and chopped up some fruit to place under the tree near the babies for scent/attraction purposes – and also for nourishment, of course. Success! In no time, Mama Squirrel ran over to the food and spotted the babies. She chose the food first! That was a shock. I had expected her to rush to the babies. But perhaps she was eating while coming up with a master plan. She ate an apple piece about a foot from her babies. Then, she came back, scooped them up one at a time and carried them into a hole in the tree. Once she got them inside, she stuck her head out and when she noticed us taking pictures, she peeked out even more. Then, she looked at us and kept posing and climbing and posing again on near branches. So we took more pictures. There is a limit of ten pictures per post, so I’ve only shared some of the best ones here. Eventually, Mama Squirrel came back and carried all of the fruit into the hole with her babies. She also grabbed some leaves and other debris. She attempted to drag the baby blanket up, but of course it was a bit big and heavy for her and she was unsuccessful. Once she is no longer making attempts, I can cut the blanket into smaller pieces that she can handle, so that she’ll have something soft and fuzzy to keep her babies warm with. Sorry Mom, I’ll have to get you another one. *Smiles* Operation Rescue Baby Squirrels appears to be a success – and it felt very good to be able to help out that mama. It was a good addition to the day for Tee and I -- and a reminder of how connected people are to nature. It needs us to respect it and care for it in order for it to continue growing and giving us all this beautiful home. UPDATE: Mama Squirrel ended up replacing the nest in Mom's truck several times and being a pain in the butt, making my mom remove it again and again. But at least her and the babies were cute enough to mask some of the trouble. *I originally published a version of this article elsewhere (no longer published there) by Marlissa Campbell, Contributing Writer
by Dennis Townsend, Contributing Writer Well, after addressing happy dogs, I must say that I totally forgot about those of you who have cats. I must beg your forgiveness and with that said, let me relay some information I have gathered about the feline of the family. Believe it or not, I myself had a total of 6 cats, mostly because my ex-wife insisted on it so most of the knowledge I have about cats comes from personal experience.
Cats are very finicky, and to keep their attention, you had better bring your “A” game to the table. When my cats were kittens, they use to love chasing a ball of cellophane. I would ball it up and throw it, the kitten would chase it, and then become amazed when it slowly begin to expand. I spent hours playing that game, and the kitten never seemed to get bored. Also, I would get out a ball of yarn, roll it across the floor, and watch the fun when, as it began to unravel, it would turn into the toy that kept on giving. The real fun is when you have a toy that moves around while the kitten intensely watches it, and then it stops. That’s when the feline would turn on the “stalking mode” and try to sneak up on the toy. Then the toy would move, and the kitten would jump a mile in the air. Now that same type of toy works with adult cats also. All cats are predators, and that type of toy allows them to use the same instincts that they would use in the wild to stalk prey. I have a bird feeder in my backyard, and many a time I have seen cats sneaking up on the birds that are on the ground eating spilled seed. Cats appreciate an interesting toy just as much as dogs do, and just about every cat loves a “kitty condo”, which often has several elevations and platforms to climb and sit on. Vertical hiding places and sanctuaries are very important to cats since this is what they look for in the wild. Try to find a condo that’s upholstered in a kneadable fabric, or carpet remnant. And if your cat still has his or her claws, you may want to invest in a good “scratching post,” if you want to save your furniture. If you’re handy with some minor tools and material, you can make these things at home. Especially since some of the condo’s that they sell in pet stores could cost you as much as $100 on up. Now some other toys you can get is a feline version of the mouse exercise wheel which you can get at Catwheelcompany.com. Some other “homemade toys” you can make includes toilet paper rolls filled with catnip or treats, and wands made out of rulers, rubber bands, and feathers. There are countless thing you can get to entertain the feline in you home, or outside if you let your cat roam the wilds of the outside, and as I said for dogs, a playful cat is a healthy happy cat. Have fun. PONCHO33 Cat photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons
by Marlissa Campbell, Contributing Writer
The Wintec Pro Dressage saddle with Contourbloc is one of several models of dressage saddles made by Wintec. The Pro Dressage saddle with Contourbloc features a large knee block incorporated as part of the flap. This can be contrasted to the flexibloc system, which consists of changeable blocks that fasten with Velcro underneath the flap. The Pro Dressage can be purchased with standard flocked panels, or with Wintec's unique air-filled CAIR system.
All Wintec saddles are made of synthetic materials, rather than traditional leather. The use of synthetics means lower prices compared to leather saddles of comparable quality. Synthetics are also easy to care for, meaning more time in the saddle and less time cleaning tack. Wintec uses a changeable gullet system for all of their saddles, which helps to fit a wider range of horses than is possible with a single gullet size alone. I was able to try the Wintec Pro Dressage saddle with Contourbloc, thanks to SmartPak equine's test ride program. I had been riding in a Wintec 2000 All Purpose saddle, which fits my horse well. I was interested in a dressage saddle in order to ride comfortably with a longer stirrup, while feeling secure both in the arena and out on the trail. This review is written from the standpoint of a general pleasure rider, rather than someone actively competing in dressage. Pros: - The saddle was generally comfortable for me to ride in. I really liked the Contourbloc, which helped me feel secure in a good riding position without any sense of being restricted. - Like other top-of-the-range Wintec saddles, the Pro Dressage with Contourbloc is a lightweight and attractive saddle. The Equisuede seat looks nice and has a bit of grip, which adds to the sense of security while riding in the saddle. - The adjustable rigging has a Y-shaped rear billet, which helps balance the back of the saddle. Cons: - The saddle required a 26 inch dressage girth. At least on my horse, this placed the buckles right behind her elbows. I'm not sure that it really got in her way, but it seemed an awkward placement to me. - The Pro Dressage with Contourbloc has a surcingle, or overgirth, attached to the flaps of the saddle. It appears to be designed to hold the flaps down by fastening around the barrel of the horse over the girth -- unlike leather flaps, the synthetic material won't break in to the shape of the horse. The surcingle prevents adjusting the girth while seated in the saddle. - Unfortunately, the Pro Dressage saddle simply turned out to be a poor fit for my horse. It wasn't an obvious bad fit. It didn't rock, it did not appear to bridge, and it did seem to sit level on her back. It was a little low at the withers, leaving about two fingers width clearance rather than the three to four generally considered ideal. At the same time, it was clear a narrower gullet plate would have pinched. In the end, she just did not seem happy to be ridden in it. She was reluctant to go forward, and did not want to bend around my leg. What to know before you try: Remember that when you are buying or trying an English saddle, you will receive just the saddle itself. You will need to have, or arrange to borrow, stirrup leathers, stirrup irons, an appropriate saddle pad, and a selection of girths in different lengths. You should have all these items to hand before you place your saddle order. For a Wintec saddle, or other brands using the Wintec changeable gullet system, you will need to be sure that you have a gullet the correct size for your horse. This is a critical step, as without the correct gullet installed, you will not be able to assess the fit of the saddle. Wintec saddles are typically shipped with the medium width (black) gullet plate installed. If you're not sure which size gullet your horse requires, Wintec sells an inexpensive gullet gauge that will allow you to measure the width of your horse at the withers. Once you know the correct size gullet, you can buy one inexpensively. Ask around your barn and friends. If you're lucky, someone will have a gullet gauge you can borrow, and perhaps even the entire kit of gullets in different widths. The combination of changeable gullets and the CAIR panel system gives Wintec saddles the ability to fit a wider range of horses than many other brands. That doesn't mean, however, that they will fit all horses. Additionally, don't assume that because one model of Wintec saddle fits your horse all of them will. Even the different models of dressage saddles made by Wintec are not identical in fit. You need to try each saddle, with the proper gullet plate inserted, in order to be sure of a good fit. Overall, I found the Wintec Pro Dressage saddle with Contourbloc to be an attractive saddle that was comfortable to ride in. I was disappointed that it didn't fit my horse. Give it a try if you think it might work for your needs. Just don't forget to listen to your horse. Marlissa blogs about books (including horse books!) and the reading life at "You Are What You Read." She is also a Pinterest addict and can be found at her page of the same name. by Dennis Townsend, Contributing Writer According to the Association for Pet Obesity, our pets are just as fat as we are, and when that happens, it’s time for the both of you to get up and at’em. Dogs love to play, and there are tons of toys that will not only get your dog moving, but you right along with them. When choosing a toy for your dog, be mindful of your dogs breed and character. Not only do you need a toy that will engage their bodies, but their minds also.
Scent-oriented dogs will respond best to games that involve seeking out something that has an odor, so hide treats around the house that they have to locate. Another option is to hide treats inside of a toy that a dog has to roll around to get at it. Intelligent dogs need mental stimulation just as humans do, so a treat sliding puzzle may work. If you’re not sure, ask a vet, and I’m sure they can make some good suggestions. For big energetic dogs, they would have a "ball" chasing a full size varsity ball of some sort, and if you really want to get a laugh, there’s a toy called "Moody Pet’s Humunga Lips" that’s a moustache-shaped chew toy that when your dog picks it up, will give you a hilarious vision of a dog with a moustache. And then there’s the old tugging game which is all about who is controlling the game. You decide when the toy must be released, and when it must be dropped. Try attaching a tennis ball to a rope which makes retrieving and throwing easy, and not to mention, no slobbery balls to handle. Some dogs love hide and seek, and believe it or not, they love to chase bubbles which blow bacon or chicken scented bubbles. Did you know that you can also make homemade toys? Try poking some holes in a 2 liter soda bottle, and fill it with a few kibbles. By pawing at the bottle, your dog will randomly release the kibbles. On hot days, try flavored ice pops. Find a container, then fill it with water or chicken stock, and then freeze it. Now these are just a few suggestions, but I’m sure you can come up with your own ideas. Now I might make one more suggestion, if you leave the house, and you are going to be gone for a long period, do not leave all of your dogs toys out to play with. Limit the number you leave out because dogs are like children, they get bored if every toy they have is right there. And we all knows what happens when children or dogs get bored. Don’t we? Photo courtesy of creative commons.com by Richard Rowell, Staff Writer Back in junior high school, a dear friend of mine wanted to base her Science Fair project around the question "Do Cats Think?" The teachers thought it was a ridiculous idea, and because the topic for the Science Fair was due, they made her do something more traditional and boring. I can't remember what subject they had her do instead, but it stuck with me for a long time that they were incredibly unfair to her for not letting her research what actually is a pretty interesting question. My love of cats has grown much over the years. Everything I have learned about them over the years would seem to prove that cats indeed do think. They don't think like humans, of course, but there is definitely a thought process to what they do. They are highly intelligent animals, and they always seem to know how to get what they want. That's what makes them such fascinating creatures. They truly have minds of their own. Whether they have any sort of actual sentience - well, sometimes I'd like to believe so, and thus I have had feline characters in my creative projects that actually are! But back to answering the question, I seem to remember one of the excuses for not letting her choose that topic was that "Cat's don't talk." First of all, that's an incredibly stupid argument. Actually, the teacher who made it wasn't even the science teacher - she was the math teacher, and she was a piece of work. The fact that the science teacher, who I actually liked before this debacle, didn't stand up for her really disgusted me. You don't have to talk to be able to think. Thinking is an internal process, of course. Cats do seem to have their own language, in fact. Oftentimes, cats will communicate with their owners with the same sounds they made as kittens, but with other cats their sounds are quite different. After a while, owners pretty much know what their cats are saying. And the way that they try (and often succeed) in manipulating owners to do what they want, it's clear that they have secret little plots going on in their head. I know that the question "do cats think" gets some people to be incredibly rude and dismissive of the whole idea that it's possible. But I read something today that scientists have found that cats have the same sort of brain activity when in a deep sleep as humans have. So I think there's a lot we still don't understand about the feline mind. Maybe one day they'll take over - probably not, but it's funny to think about. Besides, cats have a great life right now. They get everything they want, so why not act content? If you have a cat, be mindful of the fact that he or she's probably plotting right now! Photo credit: Wikimedia Commons
by Lyn Lomasi, Write W.A.V.E. Media Staff
Is your hamster extra special? Of course! Do you want to show your hamster some extra love by providing treats? Which should you use? Store bought or homemade? Depending on the type of treat, we like to give our hamsters mainly homemade treats. But there are a few store bought treats we prefer as well. So, which ones are best for your hamster? Vanity treats may contain little nutrition. Just like store-bought treats for humans can be bad, the same can be true with hamster treats. Those colorful small animal treats packaged to mock assorted human treats could be very bad for your little critter. Remember that the more colorful the treat, the more dyes were likely used to create it. Also consider the texture. Is the substance natural? Sure these treats may smell and look good. But are they really the best choice for your hamster? Watch the ingredients. The only ingredients that should be in your hamster's treats are those that come from nature. There is no reason to give hamsters chemical or sugar-induced treats. Not all hamsters have the same dietary needs. Ask your vet for a list of foods that are appropriate for your hamster. Read the labels of store-bought treats. Also watch what you put into homemade treats. Any treat containing anything other than what's on that list should be avoided. Fruity treats may sound good, but could be bad. Especially avoid sugar, even in some fruits, if you have dwarf hamsters. Fruit should be limited to an occasional treat in many hamsters. But dwarf hamsters are most susceptible to diabetes. There are only certain fruits that dwarf hamsters should have access to and those should only be given on a limited basis. Many store-bought hamster treats contain fruit ingredients that could be dangerous to your pet. Can my hamster have hay? Timothy and alfalfa are common hays given as treats to small animals. Should hamsters have hay? Yes. Hay is safe for most hamsters. Though again, you should consult with your hamster's vet for proper nutrition geared toward that animal. Each animal has its own needs. Obviously in this instance, store-bought hay as a treat makes more sense than growing and drying it yourself. Small animals do not consume enough for harvesting your own to make sense. Stick to natural-looking treats. One rule of thumb that we always follow with both homemade and store-bought treats is sticking to authentic snacks. If we go store-bought, our hamsters will get things like natural trail mix formulated for hamster diets, dried vegetables, and other things that are not altered. Store-bought does not necessarily mean a treat is bad. But when you are not hand-picking each ingredient yourself, you just need to be more cautious for the health and safety of your pet. *Information herein is based on the author's personal experiences as a hamster owner and is not meant to replace the advice of a professional. Always consult an appropriately-licensed animal care specialist for the health of your animals. *I originally published this via Yahoo Contributor Network
by Lyn Lomasi, Write W.A.V.E. Media Staff
If your family is like ours, the hamsters may be close by no matter what you are doing. This could lead you to wondering if the hamsters can share a snack or a meal with you. Can hamsters eat people food? If so, what kind, how much, and how often can they do this? Is it safe for your hamster to eat people food? Yes and no. There are only certain kinds of people food they can eat and some are even poisonous. What is a proper diet for my hamster? Hamsters need to eat a diet that consists mainly of dry rodent pellets. These are generally found anywhere pet foods are sold. In addition, a healthy dose of various seeds and grains is recommended. Seeds should not be the only diet and should be limited as compared to the pellets. This is because many nuts and seeds, such as sunflower seeds, are high in fat and can be detrimental to your hamster in unhealthy doses. Hamsters can also be given diced apples, carrots, dark greenery, and other vegetables as an occasional supplement. Hamsters also need to have fresh supply of water at all times. Can I feed my hamster some of my table scraps? Most of the time, the answer to this will be no. Hamsters certainly cannot eat your spaghetti (even though the cheese topping may smell good). Althoughthey can eat whole grain wheat pasta by itself. They also cannot consume many items from your fruit plate. Many dwarf hamsters are susceptible to diabetes. Therefore, most fruits cannot be given to them. Those they can eat, like apples, must be given only in moderation. Never give hamsters grapesor citrus fruits. If your dinner roll is made from fresh whole grains, your hamster can have a nibble or two. Which people foods are appropriate for hamsters? The only people foods hamsters should be eating include apples, nuts, seeds, grains, fresh dark greens,fresh bell peppers, fresh green beans, fresh carrots, and a few other vegetables. Keep in mind though, that this should not be their only diet. As was mentioned above, hamsters should diet mainly on rodent pellets, which have the proper balance of high protein that meets their needs. Some cheeses are fine now and then in moderation and in small amounts. A hamster will certainly take the people food at any time. But that doesn't mean they need it. Talk to your veterinarian for the exact diet that is appropriate for your hamster. Each hamster will be different, based on breed and individual nutritional needs. Can I make homemade treats for my hamster? Of course. But take care in the ingredients used and how often you are feeding the treats to the hamster. Treats should be just that. A hamster who eats more treats than food can quickly develop malnutrition. If you have a food dehydrator, hamsters can enjoy dried fruits and vegetables in moderation. You can also make them ahomemade vegetable pretzel treat that my kids and I invented for our hamsters. It's actually so tasty, you may want to eat some too! *Always contact a licensed veterinarian for the health of your animals. The information above is not meant to replace the advice of a qualified professional and is derived solely from the author's own personal experiences. *I originally published this via Yahoo Contributor Network
by Lyn Lomasi, Write W.A.V.E. Media Staff Looking for the perfect gift for a hamster lover in your life? There are plenty of gifts out there for cat and dog owners. But there doesn't seem to be much creativity in the way of gifts for hamster owners. Because the kids and I spoil our hamsters, I am often thinking of new things they will enjoy. Perhaps my creativity will help you give a special gift to your favorite hamster owner. These homemade hamster treats in pouches will be adorable to the pet owner. What's inside will please the hamster. Preparation - Before assembling the gift, you will need to gather materials and ingredients. You will need a small drawstring pouch bag and ingredients to prepare homemade hamster treats. You will also need a small piece of cardstock to print (or write) the recipe onto. That way, the hamster's owner can prepare the treats again if the hamster enjoys them. Ingredients needed for homemade hamster treats - Get all the ingredients for your favorite homemade bread recipe. This will generally be flour, yeast, and water. Make sure you have enough to prepare half the normal recipe for making a loaf of bread. You will also need ¼ cup pureed carrots and ¼ cup pureed green beans. You can also add crushed sesame seeds or sunflower kernels. Making homemade hamster treats - Prepare the bread dough as normal. Remember to cut the recipe in half. Now take half of that dough and knead in the pureed carrots. Add extra flour as needed to keep proper consistency. Set that to the side. Knead the pureed green beans into the other half. Again, add flour as needed. Now take a rolling pin and flatten the dough to about ¼ inch thickness. Take a knife and cut thin strips. Then, cut those into sections until you end up with many thin strips that are about ¼ inch wide and a few inches long. Bake these pieces in the oven on 350F until lightly crisp. Let them cool. Packaging the homemade hamster treats as a gift - Once the hamsters treats have cooled, put a blend of both the orange-colored (carrot) and green colored (green bean) treats inside the drawstring pouch bag. Punch a hole in the corner of the cardstock recipe card. Pull one of the drawstring cords through that hole to attach the card to the bag. Tie the drawstring around the bag once you tighten it. *IMPORTANT: While many hamsters can safely eat breads and vegetables, not all of them will be tolerant of every bread or vegetable. Be sure you know the hamster's dietary needs before feeding. The author is not a veterinarian. Seek approval from the hamster's vet before trying any unfamiliar foods. *I originally published this via Yahoo Contributor Network
by Lyn Lomasi, Write W.A.V.E. Media Staff
You just brought home two adorable hamsters and you wonder if they'd get along. You have two cages but one would take up less room? Can hamsters be housed together? That depends on many factors. As a pet grandparent who's had experience with several hamsters, I can tell you with experience that it largely depends on each situation. However, in many cases, it isbest to house hamsters separately. Hamsters from the same litter may do well together when young. If two hamsters of the same sex (male only) from the same litter are housed together from birth, they may do well continuing that way. However, that isn't always the case. Females cannot be paired with other females or with males. Hamsters are very territorial. Therefore, they may start fighting or worse. If you are uncertain whether your related hamsters were housed together, it's better to have them in separate cages. We go the safe route with our hamsters because we don't want them to get hurt. They each have their own cage. Never put hamsters of the opposite sex together. Remember not to house a male and female together, as they will almost certainly breed. While baby hamsters may be cute, breeding is only recommended by the professionals. Also, female hamsters tend to get quite aggressive with males after the breeding process and it can be dangerous for both hamsters. Then, you also have the problem of creating unwanted pets. Are you really going to keep up to 15 baby hamsters once they are weaned? If so, do you have the means to do so? There is also the issue of the legal limits on the number of pets you can have without being a licensed facility. Never ever intentionally breed hamsters, unless you have the proper license and ample room to do so. Hamsters like their space. Because hamsters are creatures of habit and very territorial, it can be difficult when they are housed together. Each hamster will have a certain space where they like to use the bathroom, a certain eating area, a certain area where food is stored, a sleeping area, and so on. If one hamster wants an area for one use and another wants it for something else, conflict will arise. When hamsters are housed together in the same cage, this puts them at greater risk of danger because of these issues and more. Some breeds will do better together than others. Certain hamster breeds will do better in pairs,like dwarf hamsters. But our dwarf hamsters are not fond of each other. We can tell this even with them in separate cages. Syrian hamsters are especially territorial. The general rule with housing hamsters is that if they were not raised together or if they were separated at any point, do not even try to put them together. Even if they do well together, you will need to provide ample space for each hamster to create their own space. In other words, the cage should be considerably large and offer plenty of burrowing room, hiding places, separate feeding and watering stations, and more. When in doubt, play it safe. If you can't figure out whether you should house your hamsters or not, your best bet is to refrain from doing so. The safety of your hamsters is more important than whether they are in the same cage or not. While your hamsters may enjoy playing together, hamsters are generally solitary creatures. Our Russian dwarf hamsters enjoy human interaction, but not interaction from other hamsters. Our Roborovski hamster does not enjoy interacting with people or other hamsters. All three of them have very distinct personalities. Therefore, when in doubt, play it safe and house your hamsters separately. Their lives may literally depend on it. *Please note that the information contained herein is solely from the author's personal experience with hamsters. She is not a licensed professional. Always consult your hamster's licensed veterinarian for information pertaining specifically to your pet's well-being. *I originally published this via Yahoo Contributor Network
by Lyn Lomasi, Staff Writer
On a family visit to the local pet shelter, your kids see a cute little fuzzy hamster. This hamster has special needs and requires some extra care. Can kids care for a hamster with special needs? My kids have rescued several hamsters who all had extra care needs as compared to many other hamsters. But just because some kids have had success with this does not mean that all kids will. It also depends on each unique situation.
Before adopting, consider the animal's needs. Not all special needs hamsters will be the same. Some needs will be minor, allowing a child to care for them. Yet others may be more complex. If your child can handle all of the extra responsibilities that will come with a special needs hamster, it's a great service to adopt an animal in need. My kids adopted a hamster named Buddy who was blind in one eye. They were able to provide the care he needed. However, his previous owners (who also happened to be kids)didn't treat him so well. If your kids are responsible and capable enough to provide for a special needs hamster, there is little reason not to adopt.
How serious is the animal's condition? Will the hamster need medicine or other frequent vital care? If so, can your child handle that? Is it better for the special needs hamster to go to a different home? If the kids cannot meet the hamster's needs effectively, as the parent you will need to do that. Sadly, Buddy's previous owners did not think of that. Once the kids couldn't care for Buddy, the solution the parents had was to bring Buddy back instead of caring for him themselves. While it might have taught them they couldn't have a pet if they couldn't provide care, it may have inadvertently taught them that pets are not as important as people. Animals have feelings too. If your kids are going to adopt a special needs hamster, be sure your home is the right one. Animals deserve to be part of a loving family just as much as people do. What does the vet say? Talk to the shelter and/or animal hospital staff about the animal's condition. If possible, have a vet assess the situation beforehand and let you know if your kids are the right pet parents. The vet will be able to tell you everything your family will have to do in order to properly care for the hamster. In Buddy's case, he needed no medicines, as he was born blind. But since he had been abused and neglected, he was a bit feisty. He would bite any and everything that came within a few inches of him. The kids and I had to show him lots and lots of love and tender care for months before he stopped biting. He also was a little overweight because he had been deprived of food before. So he would hoard his food and overeat. In the beginning, he didn't even know how to use his hamster wheel and he would hide in a ball in the corner of the cage. If your kids adopt a hamster with special needs, such as depression, overeating, and aggressiveness, will they have the time and patience to help the hamster overcome it all? What does your child's doctor think? Sometimes hamsters with special needs may also be sick. While it isn't common for kids to catch anything from their pet hamster,it is possible. Also, if your child has any conditions that weaken the immune system, a sick pet is more likely to infect your child. Talk to your child's doctor about the special needs hamster and any known conditions before adopting. Your child's doctor will be able to tell you what to watch out for and also give you some handy hints to help prevent illnesses spreading from pets to kids and vice versa. The vet should do the same. But your child's pediatrician is the best resource geared toward kids and the vet is the best resource geared toward your hamster. Is the related care something a child can handle responsibly? While your child may be good hearted and have good intentions, remember that you are still dealing with a kid. Kids don't always stick to their responsibilities. Is your child responsible enough to complete every step in the animal's care plan every single time? Think about any other tasks your child has and whether they get done effectively. Also, consider your child's overall attitude toward animals. If you believe your child can adequately care for a special needs hamster (and you will take over if they don't), then what are you waiting for? Go welcome home your new family member. * I originally published this via Yahoo Contributor Network
by Lyn Lomasi, Write W.A.V.E. Media Staff
Buddy the hamster is happily snoozing as I write this. He is nestled all cozy in his pile of natural bedding and other nesting materials. However, our cute little fuzzy family member wasn't always so happy. His situation is one of thousands involving pets of all kinds that constantly urge me to tell parents to please educate their kids before ever adopting a pet. Buddy's previous owners were kids and the parents did not step up to help Buddy when the kids did not take care of him. Their solution was eventually to return Buddy to the pet store. That's when my mom and one of my daughters stepped in to save Buddy. We were not even looking for a pet yet. But who else was going to adopt an abused hamster who was blind in one eye? Your pet is not a toy or a decoration. This an important lesson that all children need to learn. I know what you are thinking when I talk about a hamster. It's just a hamster. There's the problem. Buddy is not an 'it'. Any living creature is not 'just' anything, but is the same as you and me. Kids need to know this before ever getting a pet. No matter how big or small, animals have feelings just like us. When you don't feed them, they feel starvation, just like you would. When you don't play with them, they feel neglected, just like you would if no one paid attention to you. Pets require love and attention. You cannot buy a pet and just let him sit there on the shelf in his cage. He needs your love and attention. If your kids get a pet, they need to give him lots of love and attention. In Buddy's previous home, he did not receive love and the attention was the worst kind. When we first brought him home, his gut reaction was to instantly bite anything that came anywhere near him. It took months of love and special attention to get him to the point of allowing anyone to hold him without him showing aggression. If you met Buddy the day he came to us and again now, you would think you were meeting two different hamsters. His personality has completely changed - all because of love. Of course, the opposite could also happen in an instant, if he fell into the wrong hands again. Pets require proper care. Just like a baby, your pet relies on you to thrive. Your kids need to know this. In Buddy's situation, he was not properly fed, not given water often enough, not paid attention to, nor was his cage cleaned often enough, if at all. He already had a hard life (being blind in one eye) and neglectful pet owners made it that much harder on poor Buddy. When Buddy came into our home, he did not even know how to use the hamster wheel or the hamster ball. All he did at first was sleep in the corner of the cage and every now and then he'd get up to eat or drink. Now that he is being cared for properly, he runs in his ball and wheel daily and stands up begging for attention whenever anyone is near his cage. He is much more active than he was when he came to us. Not feeding or caring for an animal can cause them to have depression, be ill, or even die from neglect or starvation - just like if that happened to a human. Educate your kids before getting a pet. Talk to your kids about proper pet care. Buy books and do research together on the animal your children will adopt. Many pet stores and shelters have special classes that kids can take on how to properly care for their furry family member. If your kids are not responding well to pet lessons, by all means let someone else adopt the pet. You may think you are doing a good deed when adopting a pet in need, but if your children will neglect the pet, it's a much better deed to let another family take on that responsibility. It is very true that having a pet can teach responsibility. But at the same time, kids should be knowledgeable of their care and be willing to provide it before ever adopting an animal. *I originally published this via Yahoo Contributor Network
by Lyn Lomasi, Write W.A.V.E. Media Staff
You glance at your hamsters and they are standing upright making moves as if they are in a boxing ring. Do hamsters box? As an experienced hamster parent and rescuer, I've seen this behavior in several hamsters. I know what you're thinking: "Are my hamsters really boxing?" Are my hamsters boxing? Yes and no. Hamsters often stand on their hind legs. If they feel threatened or frightened at the same time, they may also kick with their front legs and hiss or squeak. This results in what appears to be boxing. If two hamsters are doing this to each other, it may appear as if they are in a boxing match. If they do this to a person or to their cage bars, it may look like they are practicing for a match. Why do hamsters box each other? This is a natural defense reflex that some hamsters have. I have noticed as a hamster rescuer that Russian dwarf hamsters seem to do this more than Roborovskis. When Robos are frightened, they usually hiss loudly, squeak repeatedly, and retreat. Although, I have also witnessed Roborovski hamsters boxing as well. When hamsters do this, it means that something has frightened them or seems like a threat. Many hamsterscannot be housed together in the same cage because of the possible boxing or fighting. While generally friendly with humans, hamsters can be vicious with their own kind. All of our rescue hamsters always have their own cages to prevent this type of issue. Sometimes they will see or smell each other through the bars and box the cage walls briefly. Why do hamsters box with people? Whenever there are quick movements from large objects (like a human's hand) near our rescue hamsters, they immediately begin to box. They will do the same if someone touches their food dishes or taps their cages. If your hamster is trying to box with you, this is an indication you have done something to frighten or harm your hamster. Give your hamster time to calm down and be sure you don't repeat the action that prompted the boxing. If your hamster boxes you all the time, slowly gain trust. Occasional treats and lots of talking with a soothing voice can help. Your hamster also may be simply frightened of your hand invading the cage. One of our hamsters is this way. If we want to take him out, he is much calmer if we simply open the door and let him climb out into a hamster bed. From there, he will climb into someone's hand. Should I encourage my hamster to box? Absolutely not. This can cause your hamster to think of you as an enemy. Your goal is to discourage the boxing when it comes to the way your hamster interacts with you. Because this is a natural defense mechanism, the goal is not to discourage the act completely. Your hamster should only box you if you're doing something to make him feel threatened or unsafe. How can I stop my hamster's boxing habit? Talk to your hamster in a calm and soothing voice often. Do not ever act scared or angry toward your hamster. If you are calm, the hamster is more likely to be calm. Slowly regain trust by using treats and a gloved hand. The reason your hand should be gloved is that your hamster may bite while boxing. While hamster bites do not always hurt, they may cause an automatic jerking reaction from your hand, which can injure or stress out the hamster. Make it a habit to soothingly call your hamster's name, provide a treat, then leave your gloved hand there afterward to invite the hamster to come to you. After repeating this for as many days as it takes, your hamster is likely to begin coming to you without boxing. If not, a vet may offer other suggestions or tell you to leave your hamster be unless it is time for the exercise ball or to change the cage. *Always contact a licensed veterinarian for the health of your animals. The information above is not meant to replace the advice of a qualified professional and is derived solely from the author's own personal experiences. *I originally published a version of this via Yahoo Contributor Network
by Lyn Lomasi, Staff Writer I can’t even remember exactly which of us started it. But my kids and I have taught the dogs their commands in multiple languages. We like to learn and use multiple languages in our household. Since we do it, the pets should be no different. They’re a part of the family, too. The first one we tried was the sit command in French. The dogs had that one down in less than a day. The Shih Tzu seems to prefer the French commands most now, actually. Since one of our dogs may have some black German Shepherd in her and my oldest teen had started learning German at the time, we thought it would be fun to try some German, too. So that was the second language we tried. Surprisingly (well not so surprising to us anymore – animals are smarter than some think), they catch on to each new word from each new language quite quickly. So far, the dogs know commands in English, French, and German. Since they are doing such a great job, we may add more at a later date. UPDATE: We’ve since added Spanish and they took to it quickly. Since we rescued our fur babies from shelters, it is unknown whether they were taught other languages prior to being with us. However, they sure did pick them up quickly, regardless. A few hints if you wish to try this with your dogs: 1.Only use languages in which you know how to correctly pronounce the words. There is no point in teaching it incorrectly and it will defeat the purpose if your dog ever has the opportunity to interact with someone else who speaks that language. 2.Use a reward system. Food usually works best, such as a favorite treat. However, some dogs would rather perform for a special toy, praise, or even for both food and praise. You know your furry friend best. Choose accordingly. 3.Use proper hand signals or dog sign language when giving each command in any language. This helps the dog learn faster and also adds another language at the same time (sign language). 4.Don’t force it. Not every trick or command is right for every dog. Give your dog breaks while learning and if the learning is not working or your dog is upset, don’t continue. Stressing out your dog will not help the learning process. However, it may hinder it and make it harder to teach or even be considered abusive. If your dog is not happy at any point, stop. *Image Credit/Copyright: Lyn Lomasi (Bo-Bo the Shih Tzu performing tricks for treats) **I originally published this on Bubblews.com (no longer published there). |
More Pet Advocacy
NIFAA
AVMA AAVMC Defenders of Animals American Humane Association Animal Rights History Compassion Over Killing Shelter Reform Responsible Pet Ownership Archives
April 2024
Categories
All
|