When our family adopted our first hamster, we knew we'd learn a few things. But we were thinking more along the lines of hamster care and responsibility. Throughout our time in caring for various hamsters, we have actually learned quite a bit more. Humans can actually learn many important lessons from hamsters. Here are my favorites and what I feel are the most important things hamsters teach people.
Store Food for Later Use If you've ever had a pet hamster, you likely noticed that they'll take their food from the dish and find a place in their cage to store it. Each time a hamster is fed, they will move some or most of the food into this storage area. Some people store up extra food for emergencies. Yet others do not. What will you do if there is an emergency, such as a natural disaster? What if your family suddenly loses a main income source? Are you storing food for later use? If not, take a lesson from the hamster and start building up your food supply. Stockpiling can be squeezed into any budget. Exercise Often We’ve rescued many hamsters, over the years. One noticeable similarity is that they all exercised several times per day. I don't know how on earth hamsters run on the wheel so fast for so long. But they do it. Hamsters also like to climb the cage, run around the cage, climb on people, run through obstacle courses, and so much more. Each moment they are awake, hamsters are doing something active. Leading an active lifestyle is good for a hamster's health. Staying active is also healthy for you. So, take another lesson from hamsters and stay active. Spend less time on your couch and more time doing activities that get you moving. From yoga, to racing with the kids in the backyard, to hitting the nature trails, swimming at the local pool, and more, there are plenty of ways to stay active. Sleep is Important Our hamsters like to sleep. They sleep a good portion of time throughout the day. While they are extremely active during their waking hours, hamsters sure know how to nap. Although hamsters are classified as nocturnal, they also have some diurnal tendencies. We often rescue hamsters when we have room and have had experience with several. One thing I noticed with all of the hamsters right away is their sleep pattern. Every hamster we have adopted breaks up their days and night into sections. They're usually active for two to three hours. Then, they'll sleep for about the same amount of time or longer. This cycle repeats itself throughout the day. While most people cannot follow that exact schedule, it’s important to take a lesson from hamsters about how important sleep is. Refresh your body each time you do something strenuous. If you work hard, you need to get proper rest afterward. *I originally published a version of this via Yahoo Contributor Network When you first bring your hamster home, he may be a little nervous, perhaps even distressed. The way you handle him from the start can make a big difference in the way he reacts to his new home. Also pay attention to his reaction to certain surroundings and actions. My children have cared for numerous hamsters, some that came from delicate situations. Help soothe your hamster's transition into a new home by using some of the methods we had success with in multiple cases.
Give the hamster time to get used to you. When you first bring your hamster home, you may immediately want to interact. But keep in mind that may be the exact opposite of what your hamster has in mind. It doesn't mean he hates you. He just needs time to adjust. Soothe him by granting that adjustment. Wait a few days before handling the hamster. Approach your hamster slowly to ease his fears. Start out with a gloved hand at first. Place your hand into the cage and leave it there a few minutes at a time each day. Eventually the hamster will come up to you and may even start sitting in your hand on purpose. Never feed your hamster food from your hand, unless your goal is to create a biting habit. After a while, once your hamster used to you, the glove probably won't be needed. Provide a hideaway. Your hamster needs to have one or more places to hide inside his cage. Being hidden can be soothing, especially during a transition. One of our hamsters enjoys his edible log for this purpose. The other likes a small wooden house, as well as his enclosed hamster wheel. No matter what you choose, be sure it is safe for hamsters. It also should be something the hamster can fully fit inside when he needs to retreat. This helps calm the hamster down when he is nervous or scared. Keep familiar items in your hamster's cage. If you are just switching your hamster to a new cage within the same home, transfer some of his favorite items into the new cage. We recently switched cages for one of our hamsters and he felt soothed by his favorite log and food dish. Though we switched out some items, we kept those two things to ease his transition. He was very happy in the new cage and is adjusting well. At first he would sniff the new items and test them out. Then, he would retreat to his log for a little while. That helped him feel secure. If you are just bringing your hamster home for the first time, you may not be able to use items from the previous habitat. Purchasing similar items is the second best option. *The author is not a licensed veterinarian. Always ask your veterinarian for the best advice specific to your hamster. **I originally published a version of this via Yahoo Contributor Network If you bought your hamster's cage at the pet store, you may get it set up at home and discover it isn't as big as you'd like it to be. So how do you solve that issue? Perhaps you did buy a large cage but it has a second floor that's pretty high off the ground. Should your hamster's cage have a second level?
A second level could give a hamster more room. The bigger the cage, the more room your hamster will have to run around and play. This is always a good thing. Some people find that adding a second floor is a simple way to give the hamsters more room because it will take up less space in the house than a longer cage would. Hamsters also enjoy climbing. So a second floor may give them the best of both worlds. Syrian hamsters will especially need a great deal of room. Dwarf hamsters don't need as much space. But they still need the freedom to roam. Hamsters have a poor sense of depth perception. Their vision is not great and they are known to walk right off an edge. If your hamster does this on a second level, it could cause serious injury. Think about your hamster's habits. When held, is your hamster running all over you not really paying attention to the varied heights? If so, most likely the same will occur with a second level cage. A second level may be safe if height is limited. With proper bedding underneath and no more than six inches between the first and second level, another floor could be safe for your hamster. When thinking of adding additional floors, keep the same safety precautions in mind. If you add a third floor, fourth floor, and so on, consider how far your hammie can fall from each level. One solution to that issue is to section off each floor from the previous one and provide only tunnels for the hamster to travel through for each level. How large is your hamster's main area? If your hamster's main area is already large, a second floor may not be necessary. Just be sure your hamster has plenty of toys and an exercise wheel and ball. On the other hand, if the space is compact, adding the second floor may be the best option for your hamster. You can create this floor yourself by attaching a wire cage atop an aquarium filled with bedding. There are also cages for sale that feature a second floor. But be careful to choose one with appropriate bar sizing for your hamster's size and breed. Should my hamster's cage have a second level? It really depends on each unique situation. Ideally, large and small hamsters should all have plenty of space. Beyond that, each hamster's needs will vary. With you hamster in mind and with the help of a licensed vet, you should be able to tell what's best for your hamster. *Always contact a licensed veterinarian for the health of your animals. The information above is not meant to replace the advice of a qualified professional and is derived solely from the author's own personal experiences. Hamsters are already considered one of the most green pets to have. But that doesn't mean you can't take it a step further and be even more green with your hamster's care. Our family is always looking for more ways to be green and save money. As such, we've figured out many ways to be green in the care of our fur babies (aka family pets). Our hamsters are spoiled, but in the greenest ways we know.
Use recycled or recyclable bedding. This can be bought in the store or made at home. If you use a paper shredder at home, don't throw the paper in the trash. Put it in your hamster's cage as bedding instead. They'll enjoy playing in it and it will reduce waste, as well as save you money on store-bought bedding. If you do go store-bought, most hamster bedding will be green to a certain extent, but if it can be recycled or has been made from recycled materials, it's even better. Edible hideaways offer shelter and reduce waste. Hamsters love to sleep and hide in various shelters. Dual purpose shelters made for eating or chewing are greener than those made from plastic. Once the plastic ones wear out or are no longer used, into the landfill they go. But if you purchase chewable or edible hideaways, your hamster will most likely devour much or all of the material before it goes to the waste bin. Because it's edible, what's left is most likely biodegradable, unlike plastic. Use chew toys that double as treats. Your hamster needs something to chew on in order to keep his teeth healthy. Chew toys like alfalfa sticks and small twigs are great for this because they double as a treat. That way, there is little to none left to throw away when they finish with it. You may have to experiment with a few different edible chew toys to see what your hamster likes best. Keep a small catch dish under your hamster's water bottle. Even properly installed water bottles will drip from time to time, especially during or right after use. Keeping a small dish underneath prevents the bedding from getting wet. This reduces the frequency of cage cleanings, thereby reducing the amount of bedding being used. Also be sure the bottle is properly secured and working correctly. A leaky water bottle not only wastes water, but causes too much dampness in your hamster's cage. This can lead to mold if not changed often enough and a high waste of bedding if changed accordingly. Make homemade treats. Not only will your hamster enjoy fresh treats, but you'll reduce plastic and transportation waste that comes from store-bought treats. Just be sure to get approval from your hamster's vet to make sure the homemade treats are safe. Here's a recipe on homemade vegetable bread snacks for hamsters. *I originally published a version of this via Yahoo Contributor Network If you care for both a guinea pig and hamster, you may wonder if they would make good friends to each other. Hamsters and guinea pigs might seem similar in some aspects. But should you house guinea pigs and hamsters together in the same cage? While it might at first seem a bright idea to some, here's why this long-time animal nurturer and pet parent says "absolutely not!"
Dietary needs differ significantly. While there may be some similarities since both animals are in the rodent family, what they need to much on all day is not exactly the same. Some selections, such as carrots, are the same. But others are very different. Also, the makeup of hamster food differs from that of guinea pig food. If both foods are available in the cage, there is no telling which each animal will pick. This could cause nutritional deficiencies, as well as overdoses or exposure to harmful food for either animal. Neither should eat the other's food. But they likely will, if available. Territorial habits may cause difficulties. Both animals like to claim their space and do what they please with it. Many hamster breeds are extremely territorial. Most cannot even be housed with other hamsters due to this issue. Just imagine what they will think and do when something big (and possibly scary) moves into their house. It's not going to be very nice. Your hamster might simply hiss at the guinea pig and hide. The guinea pig may let out some squeaks of warning. On the other hand, either could react badly as well. Both animals like to kick and bite when they get upset, especially over their territories. While some may get along as playmates, it's not very common and they should never be left alone (and most likely, not even supervised) in the same confines. Unfair match-up plays a role. Remember that guinea pigs are much larger than hamsters. Even though guinea pigs are more docile, the do still have sharp teeth. Neither of these animals is carnivorous. However, if your guinea pig is bitten by the hamster or otherwise threatened, there is no competition. A guinea pig's size immediately gives him the advantage. Housing hamsters and guinea pigs together is a very unfair mix. Take a look at your hamster's teeth. Yes, they are sharp. But also glance at your guinea pig's teeth. There should be no question at all who would win in a showdown. Different cage needs can pose a problem. The bar spacing of hamster and guinea pig cages are not equal. Guinea pig cages have much wider spacing, from which hamsters can easily escape. They love climbing. Because of that, someone might opt to put both animals in a hamster cage instead. Think again. Hamster cages are not large enough for guinea pigs at all. On top of that, they are not built for guinea pigs, who may escape. What about a large aquarium? Even if you house these animals together in an aquarium or other cage that can contain both, there are still all of the other factors mentioned. Varying behavioral instincts can spell trouble. Many hamsters are nocturnal creatures. This means they are active mostly at night and will be sleeping much of the day. Guinea pigs, on the other hand, are diurnal. This means that when your guinea pig is running around squeaking up a storm, it will interfere with your hamster's sleeping time. The same goes in reverse. It's doubtful the guinea pig will appreciate a hamster rooting around his area when he's trying to sleep. Also, each animal likes to keep special areas for everything in their cages. If these areas conflict (for instance, the hamster tries to store food where the guinea pig wants to sleep), that could create a serious problem. *I originally published a version of this via Yahoo Contributor Network You're holding your guinea pig, who squeezes closer to you and it sounds like he is purring. But only cats purr, right? Do guinea pigs purr? Yes, they most certainly do emit a purring sound. But is it really a purr and what does it mean? Is your guinea pig happy, sad, angry, or otherwise when he makes this noise? I had guinea pigs as a child and so have my own kids.
Do guinea pigs purr? Yes. Guinea pigs do in fact purr. They may do it when you are holding them. They might also do it when eating carrots or their favorite treat. The purring could be directed at an object, another guinea pig, or even you. One child's science fair project actually proved an expert wrong regarding the guinea pig purr. The expert believed that only cats have a 'true' purr, which is not true in our experience. All of our guinea pigs have always made the purring sound. What does it mean when my guinea pig purrs? This can actually mean several things. The most common meaning of a guinea pig purr is happiness. But that is not always the case. It can also indicate fear, fright, and more. Deciphering each purr requires being attentive to your pet, as well as listening to the length and pitch of the purr. Which guinea pig purrs are a good sign? If your guinea pig's purr sounds long and deep, he is likely very content and comfortable. Our guinea pig usually does this when someone holds him close and talks to him. Happy purrs are not always long. But they are generally accompanied by overall calmness, such as posture and attitude. Pay attention to what else your guinea pig is doing while he purrs like this. Which purrs should I worry about? Short and possibly higher-pitched purring noises could be a sign of pain or fright. These are not good. Higher voice pitches while purring can be an indicator of being annoyed. If your guinea pig is doing this toward you, leave him alone for a while. If it's toward another guinea pig, separate them until they've both had time to settle down. Guinea pigs like attention from each other and even from you. But sometimes they also need to be alone. How can I make my guinea pig purr? The best way to entice purrs from your guinea pig is to keep him happy. Stroke his ears. Pet his back softly. Talk gently to him often and hold him close. Give him treats as recommended. But most of all, just show him you love him and he will do the same in return, which may result in purring. *I originally published a version of this via Yahoo Contributor Network Has your guinea pig been eating his droppings? Are you sure that is actually what he's doing? Do guinea pigs eat their poop? Some animals, such as guinea pigs, partake in coprophagy either unhealthily or as part of their regular nutrition regimen. Should your guinea pig be eating his poop? If not, can you prevent guinea pigs from doing this?
Do guinea pigs really eat their own poop? Yes. In a way, guinea pigs do eat a substance that is extracted the same way as their poop. But they do not actually eat their poop, per se. Guinea pigs need to eat their food twice before it is fully digested. Therefore, the substance they are eating should be thought of as a nutritional pellet. Plus, it's just easier on the ears to say your guinea pig is eating nutrition pellets, rather than referring to it as poop. Eating one's own fecal matter is called coprophagy. What is coprophagy? As explained above, coprophagy is the act of eating one's own excrement. Many animals practice this. For some, like the guinea pig, it is normal and healthy. Many animals actually need to digest their food twice in order to benefit from the nutrients. Therefore, do not be alarmed if you see your guinea pig doing this. How much coprophagy is normal? Generally, a guinea pig will not eat anymore of these pellets than is necessary. A general rule is to make sure your guinea pig is also eating his regular diet and drinking fresh water. Coprophagy helps your guinea pig digest the rest of the food in the diet. If a guinea pig is not doing this regularly, a deficiency in protein and other nutrients may occur. While guinea pig food includes nutritional pellets, the pellets consumed during coprophagy are better for your pet's health. Can I prevent coprophagy in my guinea pig? It is natural and necessary for your guinea pig to partake in coprophagy. In one study, guinea pigs who were prevented from partaking in coprophagy suffered nutritionally. This was true , even with those guinea pigs being fed commercial pellets. Therefore, unless your vet recommends it (generally in an extreme case), you should never try to stop your pet from eating pelleted excrement. If you do need to prevent your guinea pig from doing this, your veterinarian will advise you on what to do based on your guinea pig's individual needs. What happens if my guinea pig does not eat his own pellets? Eating the pellets (or poop) is vital to your guinea pig's health. If your guinea pig does not show signs of doing this, it is best to see an appropriately licensed animal care professional. Your pet's veterinarian will be able to tell you how to help your guinea pig meet nutritional needs , as well as any other steps you can take. *I originally published a version of this via Yahoo Contributor Network |
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